Sangiovese is one of the stars of the Italian wine grape varieties now making their mark in Australia. The variety is regarded as being suitable for cultivation in a number of Australian wine regions.
Jancis Robinson in her excellent 1986 work, Vines Grapes and Wines, claims that the variety was plagued by a multitude of subvarieties of varying quality. Wines made from the variety could range from very ordinary to excellent.
The vagaries of the rules for the grape varieties permitted in Chianti have added to the broad range of quality of this particular wine. Now growers and winemakers are more conscious of using the better clones or subvarieties. The result is better wine and wider acceptance of the variety.
Since the 1970s the rules have been extended to allow a blending of up 10 percent of other varieties. It was soon discovered that the use of Cabernet Sauvignon as the minor component with Sangiovese leads to outstanding results.
Sangiovese is the only variety permitted in the famous wines from Brunello di Montalcino, which are regarded as among Italy's best. They're made a strain of Sangiovese Grosso called Brunello ("little dark one"), so named for the brown hue of its skin. Although these wines are grown and made in Tuscany they are big, deep-colored, and powerful, with enough tannins and structure to warrant considerable cellaring. Over recent years there has been increased plantings and interest in the variety in California.
The Sangiovese variety has only been used in any quantity in Australia over recent years. It has been tried in most regions in Eastern Australia
It is comparatively scarce in WA, perhaps because of the mix up a few years ago when some WA wineries, including Howard Park planted what they thought were Sangiovese vines but they turned out to be
Some commentators believe that many plantings of Sangiovese made during the 1990s were of inferior clones. If this is the case we should expect to see some better wines in the future as newer Sangiovese vineyards come into production and others are grafted over to better clones.
Australian Wineries using Sangiovese
It was the stuff we used to get in raffia wrapped bottles. The wine was cheap and ordinary but the bottle was very handy as a candle holder.
Chianti is a more serious wine than that these days.
In Tuscany you are much more likely to find it in a respectable Bordeaux shaped bottle with a conservative, low-key label telling you that this not just a fun drink.
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