Madam Murat - a restaurant, a social history museum or a time capsule

by Darby

We visited Madame Murat's Restaurant - Chez Jeanne - in Pomarede in South West France.

Not the best restaurant I've been to but one of the most interesting. Mary Moody of course wrote a book about it and there is a TV program,now available on DVD.

All three say something about rural France.

It is changing. It has always been changing.

Down here in a relatively unknown corner of France we have had

*the emergence of Cro magnon man - neolithic tools have been found 100 metres from our chateau.
*the invasion of the Celts
*the invasion of the Romans
*the invasion of the barbarians, goths, vandals and franks
*Vikings came up the Lot and Garonne rivers in their longboats for plunder
*Eleanor of Aquitaine married the future king of England and prompted the English to control the area for a few centuries, follwed by the hundred years war
*there were also assorted religious wars and the Black Death that caused a few changes
*phylloxera wiped out the local wine industry in the 1860s and caused disruption to land use and rural lifestyles
*many young men from every village lost their lives in distant wars 1800-1815, and 1914-1918.
*Nazi occupation and resistance have left scars and monuments
*the industrial revolution has lead to a steady decline in rural population over the past two centuries.

More recently there has been a new invasion of English (and others) They have been buying old village houses and farm houses and renovating them as holiday houses and as places for permanent relocation. This new money and new blood has revitalised the area and has kept alive many small communities and the businesses and services they depend on.

So Madam Murat's and her clientele are changing slowly with the times. What isn't changing is the basic elements. Good food, no fuss, efficient service.

See more details of our visit to Madam Murat

Comments for Madam Murat - a restaurant, a social history museum or a time capsule

Average Rating starstarstarstarstar

Click here to add your own comments

Nov 22, 2012
Well worth the visit to Madame Murat
by: Scott and Julie Hamilton

We have been to Chez Jean twice now and absolutely loved it on both occasions.
We plan to go again next year.
The food is simple French and cooked in butter and duck fat and despite being a heart attack risk, it tastes sensational.
Whatever you do don't eat a big breakfast before you get there.
Good home style French food at its best.

Sep 22, 2012
Madam Murat's was a delight and the highlight of our week
by: Jackie Bowden

We have been for lunch at Madam Murat's. It was almost a spontaneous visit, when the landlord of our gite offered to make the booking and drive us there.
What a delightful and memorable occasion it turned out to be. The simple country fare was delicious and plentiful.
The staff friendly and patient (with non meat eating clients). The restaurant was full of workers enjoying their meals and a break from the fields, which was the original premise of it.
I would recommend a visit to this living historical establishment of provincial France to any visitor.

Click here to add your own comments

Join in and write your own page! It's easy to do. How? Simply click here to return to France.

Keep in touch with Vinodiversity

Just enter your details below and you will receive an occasional newsletter letting you know all about the alternative varietal wine scene in Australia and beyond.



Don't worry -- your e-mail address is totally secure.
I promise to use it only to send you Vinodiversity News.

Wine map of Italy

See the best wine maps from

See also Vinodiversity's Wine Map Store on Amazon