Lazy Ballerina

by James Hook
(McLaren Vale)

Lazy Ballerina viticulturalist and winemaker, James Hook, reports from McLaren Vale.

Lazy Ballerina production focuses on Shiraz, both on its own, as a varietal, and in combination with Viognier.

The ripening season in the lead up to harvest could be discribed in a few words, "Veraison interupted."

A series of extremely hot days, developed into the second year of heatwaves during harvest. McLaren Vale had day-time temperatures in excess of 45 degrees C. Night-time temperatures were above 30 degrees C. This caused damage in all vineyards to a greater or lesser degree. Some severe cooking left vineyards too badly burnt to be picked.

Unfortunately some vineyards that were targeted at A-Grade, with limited irrigation, small canopies and low fertiliser, suffered the worst. These were quickly picked before the heat could shrivel the fruit up.

Checking with the record books this was the earliest red harvest.

Fortunately cool weather did give the remaining vines a chance to recover.

Normal weather returned but the lingering effects of the heat wave caused an uneven ripening period and this showed through in the way fruit lavours developed.

Blocks have a high degree of variation in their quality and style.

Shiraz fruit is beginning to show some flavour. Acid levels are dropping and many of the best remaining vineyards are booked in for harvest.

This has given me a chance to get out and taste as much fruit as possible and come to our some conclusions about the vintage.

I have decided to pick now.

The bunch, shown above, is typical of Shiraz this season. Some of the berries now have ripe seeds (brown and crunchy), macerated pulp (juicy) and skin that is chewy and bleeds colour onto your fingers.

These are the three simple things I look for in mature, high quality Shiraz. Great news to see these signs despite what has happened before.

However, bad news, some berries in the same bunch are not ideal. The bunch pictured has some shrivelled fruit which tastes bland and has little juice. Worse, from a wine quality point of view, some berries that have only just coloured up and taste sharp and acidic.

Still I think it is as good as it will get. This block is being harvested Thursday night. Lets hope the ripe fruit outweighs the bad and we can produce wines that fans of the region have come to expect.